Gardenful field guide

How to map sunlight in your yard

The short answer

Photograph the same planting area in mid-morning, around midday, and in late afternoon on a clear day. Mark where direct sun reaches the soil, then repeat the check in another season if a tree or building changes the pattern. Use the map to divide the bed into sunnier, mixed-light, and consistently shaded pockets before choosing plants.

By Gardenful Editorial Team5 minute read
The same front yard shown in morning, midday, and afternoon with shadows moving across the planting areas
  • Morning
  • Midday
  • Late afternoon
Illustration
Check morning, midday, and late afternoon from the same spot. The moving shadows matter more than one noon snapshot.

Record the light when it changes the planting decision

You do not need a year of perfect measurements. You need enough observations to catch the shadows that matter.

The same foundation bed with direct spring light and broad summer shade from a deciduous tree
  • Leaf-off canopy
  • Leaf-on canopy
Illustration
A bare spring canopy can make the bed look sunnier than it will in summer. Take the second photo after the leaves fill in.
  1. 1

    Draw the fixed edges

    Sketch the house, fence, trees, walk, and bed outline. These objects explain why the light changes.

  2. 2

    Photograph the same frame

    Use one camera position in mid-morning, near midday, and late afternoon. Note the date and whether the sky was clear.

  3. 3

    Mark direct light on the soil

    Trace the bright areas, not just the sun on taller leaves. A plant at the wall may receive different light from one at the bed edge.

  4. 4

    Repeat when the canopy changes

    A deciduous tree can make a bed sunny in spring and shaded in summer. Recheck when leaves emerge or when a seasonal result seems surprising.

Describe the pattern before naming the zone

Plant labels compress light into broad categories. Your map should preserve the useful detail behind the label.

Observed pocketSunny edgeWhat the map showsDirect light reaches the soil through most observations.What can fool youPaving or a pale wall may add reflected heat.Nursery questionWill this plant tolerate both the light and the heat?
Observed pocketMixed-light middleWhat the map showsDirect light arrives for one part of the day and then moves away.What can fool youThe same duration can feel different in cool morning or hot afternoon light.Nursery questionDoes this plant prefer morning sun or tolerate late-day sun?
Observed pocketConsistent shadeWhat the map showsThe bed stays shaded in every useful observation.What can fool youDry shade beneath eaves or roots is different from moist shade.Nursery questionWill it fit this shade, soil moisture, and root competition?

Sources: Oregon State University Extension, University of Florida IFAS Extension

Map a bed that is sunny only at the outer edge

The light map changes what belongs at the hot edge, in the middle, and close to the wall.

Foundation bed with a bright outer edge, mixed-light middle, and shaded wall pocketIllustration
The outer edge gets the most sun and heat. The wall stays cooler and shadier. Treat the middle as its own planting area.

A foundation bed below a west-facing window

The wall shades the inner bed until early afternoon. The outer curve receives several hours of direct light plus heat reflected from the walk.

  1. 1

    Put the toughest low layer at the edge

    Reserve the hot outer curve for a low plant that tolerates the observed sun and reflected heat.

  2. 2

    Use the middle as a transition

    Repeat a flowering or foliage mass that accepts part-day light rather than forcing one sun-loving plant through the whole bed.

  3. 3

    Keep the wall pocket simple

    Use shade-tolerant structure or mulch where the eave keeps both light and rain from reaching the soil.

The bed now has three planting areas, each with a different mix of light and heat.

Check soil, moisture, and mature size

The light map narrows the choices. These final checks help you choose plants that will fit the bed.

  • Season: Note whether the observation happened before or after trees leafed out.

  • Moisture: Check whether eaves, roots, slope, or irrigation make the shade unusually dry or wet.

  • Mature size: Draw the plant at mature width around windows, paths, vents, and neighboring plants.

  • Local fit: Confirm the exact plant with a regional source or nursery before buying.

Questions people usually ask next

How many hours of sun should I measure?

Use six or more hours of direct sun as a practical starting point for full sun. University of Minnesota Extension describes part shade as about three to six hours and full shade as less than three. Record those hours for each part of the bed, along with whether they fall in the cooler morning or hotter afternoon.

Can I map sunlight with my phone?

Yes. Photos from the same position at several times are often enough for a first planting plan. Add the date and repeat the sequence when a deciduous canopy changes.

Do I need to observe the yard for a full year?

No. Start with a clear-day sequence during the growing season, then recheck after major seasonal canopy changes or before buying an expensive long-lived plant.

Gardenful

Bring a useful sunlight map to your first design.

Map the bed first, then use Gardenful to compare planting directions for the actual sunny and shaded pockets.

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